Light Jacket Season
It's the Most Wonderful Time of the Year
The consensus from everyone I’ve talked to lately is that this past winter was absolutely miserable. Even with a vacation in the middle of it, my mental state from the beginning of January through the end of March was precarious at best and I felt like I was dragging myself forward on my belly the whole time. Hauling my carcass from one landmark on the calendar to the next, I kept my sights on the next thing, whether that was a family trip or a Saturday morning reading in a coffee shop. Having something to look forward to will get you through the toughest times, and the big one for me was the arrival of Spring.
In the circles I run in, and most likely you do too if you’re reading this, one of the most celebrated times of the year is Light Jacket Season. Unsurprisingly, Light Jacket Season is the time of year when we can, well, wear the light jackets that have been crowding our closets during the dead of winter and depths of summer. In the Northeast, the season only runs from April to May and September to October. While winter and summer seem to drag on interminably every year, the unpredictability of temperate days in Spring and the long wait for a break from the heat in Fall make every light jacket day precious.
In celebration of this joyous season, I’ve made a list of some of my favorite light jackets that I’m looking forward to wearing in the coming weeks.
Madras pullover: This is one of my favorite jackets in a very deep bench. I picked up this old J. Crew piece on Poshmark and it’s been a really lovely throw-on jacket for the last five or six years. Made of a breathable cotton madras, it’s shirt-weight with a point collar, button cuffs, a drawstring waist, and quarter zip closure. The roomy, slouchy fit and kangaroo pocket make it a hot-weather alternative to sweatshirts, but I often pull it on over a collared shirt when I need a little additional layering on cool spring mornings. With the sleeves rolled up or buttoned closed, it’s ideal to cut the wind and sun a little on a breezy day by the sea. I’ve never really seen anything else like this jacket, and I plan to hold onto it for the rest of my life.
M-421a: This is the only item on this list that I purchased new. I used to have a vintage Harrington jacket from classic Ivy-Style mainstay H.I.S. that I eventually outgrew, and I found myself looking for a new nondescript tan windbreaker. In many ways, the M-421a is the opposite of the Harrington jacket. Where the Harrington relies on a blousy, oversized fit for freedom of movement, the M-421a has a slim waist and action pleats at the shoulders, giving it an athletic silhouette and a remarkably mobile fit. Made on essentially the same pattern as the leather M-422a (later redesignated as the famous G-1 of Top Gun fame), this cotton poplin jacket was issued to Navy and Marine Corps aviators for hot weather wear during the Second World War, but it doesn’t bear any overt military markings. I got a reproduction M-421a from Bronson, and while I had heard some complaints that it was too long, it works for me and my stubby body. It fits in well with my button-downs and madras shirts, adding a subtle military flair without being as warlike as a jungle jacket or a camo overshirt.
Roebucks Denim Jacket: Denim jackets are hard for me to wear. I haven’t quite adapted to the throw-on casual nature of the garment, and I’m leery of doing double denim, but if I’m going to wear a denim jacket ever it’s going to be this one. A vintage Roebucks jacket from the 70s (judging by the collar size), it has a classic cropped Type III cut with brass shank buttons, and enough room in the shoulders for easy wear. I tend to wear it with high-rise chinos or fatigue trousers, but I’m thinking this year that it would actually look great over a t-shirt (maybe a beer company graphic tee) with drawstring or UDT shorts. In any case, I can’t recommend buying a vintage denim jacket more highly. All the new ones I’ve tried on have been too long, and this example is cut from MIUSA selvedge denim that’s washed and worn to develop a remarkably soft hand over the years.
Linen Tweed Sport Coat: I don’t wear as much tailoring as I used to, but I have also broadened my ability to wear it in more casual ways. I love my cotton and linen suits for spring and summer, and I have some madras and seersucker jackets for bright, sunny days, but something that I was missing for a long time was a summer tweed jacket. J. Press had some nice cotton jackets in tweedy patterns a couple years ago that I missed the boat on. I found a 100% silk sport coat at a vintage store for 20 bucks in a great broken herringbone weave, but unfortunately it was a bit too big for me, and I don’t think I have the height to pull off the oversized 90s jacket look like Denzel or Robert Redford, so I passed on it.
My friend Trevor saved the day when he alerted me to a jacket that he was selling off. I love linen, one of the less-understood materials in the world of clothing, and the sport coat he wanted to rehome was an all-linen herringbone with three patch pockets and soft, relaxed shoulders, by Polo Ralph Lauren. The weave makes it thicker than most linen material, giving it a sensual heft that causes it to droop exquisitely under its own weight. Creases have formed in the crooks of the elbows and the pockets sag handsomely, giving it a gorgeous lived-in look. It feels like something that would be worn on unhurried Mediterranean days in a novel by Evelyn Waugh or Lawrence Durrell.
We’re already in Mid-April, and time is fleeting. Before you know it, it’ll be July and we’ll all be trying to look stylish in as few layers as possible. Don’t let these semi-cool, semi-warm days fly past without noticing. Savor the sun on your face, the crisp morning air that smells new and inviting. Keep your favorite light jackets handy, and grab a different one whenever you head out the door. Stick your hands in the pockets as you stroll your town. Turn up the collar while you enjoy a coffee at a sidewalk table. Drape your jacket over the shoulders of someone you’re with so they don’t catch a chill.
Enjoy yourself, it’s later than you think.
What I’m Listening To: Fix a Drink by Jeongyeon
My partner and I went to see Twice live recently, the first time they’ve performed in Boston. I’m on the fringes of being a K-pop listener and I have a soft spot for girl groups (Hwasa from Mamamoo did a killer solo show last year) so I went in with some knowledge of Twice’s catalog of songs but got to hear some things I hadn’t before.
The breakout favorite number for me was Jeongyeon’s solo country-western song Fix a Drink. Melancholy, sexy, and acoustic-focused, it’s anchored by a resonating descending bass guitar lick reminiscent of classic 70s country music. A country/K-pop crossover is pretty rare, and I’m glad I heard this song, plus they put a giant rhinestone cowboy hat on her for this set which was just great.